If you come to Corsica, it's impossible not to see one of the 85 Genoese towers… They have been encircle the island for thousands of years. Part of Corsica's heritage, some of these towers are even classified as a Historic Monument.
Accessible to all for the most part, you can get there by a short walk or even a hike depending on its geographical location.
After a brief historical reminder, we will present some tours that we like, and obviously located near The Villa Serena…
History and architecture of the Genoese towers
These are ancient fortresses erected in the 16th century when Corsica was a territory of the Republic of Genoa.
Usually round and stone (rarely square) they are usually built on three levels. Their average height varies between 12 and 17 meters, and their average width from 8 to 10 meters. The basement was a storage space for food and ammunition. The first floor was the life room of the guards. The second level and the terrace served as a surveillance site. The floors communicated using a simple ladder.
During an attack, the guards then made a fire at the top of the tower. All the towers lit up one by one, constituting an ingenious warning system, over thousands of kilometers of coastline!
Note: By abuse of language, they are all called "Genoese towers" but in fact some were built earlier, during the occupation of the pisans in the 12th century (so-called Pisan towers) and others later, on the order of Pascal Paoli (so-called paoline towers)
Let's now look at the towers near Villa Serena, eliminating those that are really too much in ruins…:
The Tower of Capitello
Distance from Villa Serena: 12 km
This tower, built in 1552, was restored in 1998, but remains inaccessible to the public. With its 42 meters of circumference at the base, it is more important than most of its sisters. Unlike the other Genoese towers on the west coast that are located on points or peninsulas, the Tour de Capitello was erected on a few rocks near the mouth of the Gravona and Prunelli.
Access to the path to the foot of the tower is at the alta Rocca hut.
From this tower you can see the city, and the landscape from the South Shore to the Isolella. Today, it had walls built identical to those of the 16th-century Pisan-style Romanesque churches.
To get there, you have to go to the Porticcio cemetery, above the Terra Bella residence and take a hike in the scrub. This hike offers a beautiful view of the Gulf of Ajaccio, Porticcio and the Tour of The Capitello.
This tower was built in 1550 – 1551 by Giacomo Lombardo. Cobbled stairs (quite steep) allow you to go back and forth at the foot of the tower and enjoy the panorama. It is rather well preserved, but it is not visited.
Its name means "land" tower, as opposed to that of "sea" which succeeded it on the island of Mezu Mare.
The Isolella Tower
Distance from Villa Serena: 22 km.
A well-maintained trail, 500 m long, makes it very easily accessible. This Genoese tower built in 1608 was renovated in 1970, but is not visited. Located on the Isolella peninsula, this tower is a veritable small lookout overlooking not only the magnificent small coves of the peninsula, but also the entire Gulf of Ajaccio.
This tower is also classified as a "Historic Monument":
So do not hesitate to go to meet these towers, in addition to their historical interest, they offer a magnificent view of the landscapes because of their strategic positioning …
To go further:
Genoese Tours: 40 family walks, Volume 1: South Corsica (French) Broché – May 10, 2001 https://amzn.to/3aRozry
Genoese Corsica: economy, society, culture: modern period, 1453-1768 (French) Paperback – 31 May 1997 https://amzn.to/3eZE1VH
For this, he led the French armies from Italy to the Nile and from Austria to Prussia and Poland: his many brilliant victories (Arcole, Rivoli, Pyramids, Marengo, Austerlitz, Jena, Friedland), in rapid military campaigns, dislocating the four first coalitions.
Successive peacees, which put an end to each of these coalitions, strengthened France and gave it a degree of power hitherto rarely equalled in Europe, during the peace of Tilsit (1807).
It brings the French territory to
134 departments in 1812.
He is also President of the Republic
from 1802 to 1805, then king of Italy from 1805 to 1814, but also
Ombudsman of the Swiss Confederation from 1803 to 1813 and protector of the
Confederation of the Rhine from 1806 to 1813.
His victories allow him to
to annex large areas of France and govern most of the world's
continental Europe by placing his family members on the thrones of
several kingdoms: Joseph on that of Naples then of Spain, Louis on that of Holland, Jerome on that of Westphalia and his brother-in-law Joachim Murat in Naples.
After this successful start, Bonaparte was defeated by the Allied army during the Battle of Waterloo in Belgium on 18 June 1815. He was banished to the British island of St. Helena in the southern Atlantic Ocean, where he died on 5 May 1821.
This year's 2019 programme was available at Villa Serena.
Here are some animal species that we find friendly and that you will not fail to cross on the small village roads in Corsica…: wild boars, donkeys, turtles, etc.
The wild boar (u Cignale)
Not to be confused with the domestic pig it is genetically close to. It proliferates in the scrubland and forests of Corsica. An omnivore, it feeds mainly on acorns, chestnuts, roots, worms, insects and tubers.
The pig (u Porcu)
The breeding of pig pigs of the nustrale pig breed is mainly found in South Corsica and more particularly on the western part. In Upper Corsica, they are also found in Castagniccia, a region of chestnut groves and dense forest ideal for their breeding.
Wild cattle that live in the mountains. They form 2 populations (about 600 animals) in Monte Cinto (to the north) and in the Bavella Massif (south of the island).
The Corsican donkey (u Sumeru)
There are two types of donkey in Corsican: the small one (about 1.20 m at the withers), a grey dress with the cross of Saint-André on the back and the larger one (up to 1.30 m at the withers) of dark brown or black.
The fox (a Volpe)
This carnivore is red-haired with a bushy tail, pointed ears, thin legs and an elongated snout. It's a chicken nightmare!
The Cursinu
A Corsican-bred dog, it is powerful but calm and can easily be recognized by its dress. He is also versatile: shepherd, keeper and hunter!
Hermann's turtle
The largest populations are found in the Ajaccian, Sartenais/Valinco, Figari/Porto-Vecchio basins and the eastern plain.
What is really nice is that you can cross most of these species just by walking on the main roads of Corsica or in the villages …
Corsica, in addition to its sumptuous landscapes that will amaze your eyes, will also delight your taste buds thanks to the quality of the products of its terroir.
Here's a panorama of what not to miss:
Salted side….
The deli
It is made from an island pig breed called Porcu nustrale, it is the subject of an AOC (controlled origin designation), in order to certify its quality and provenance. Among them are:
The Coppa, which is the pork's loin appreciated for its small salty taste and its smoky aroma. The coppa can be stored in time so don't hesitate to slip it into your suitcase
Prisuttu, a dry and raw ham, is the leg of pork. You can also enjoy it all year round!
Lonzuis the pork loin. What gives it its taste so exquisite is the fat. Lonzu also keeps over time.
Panzetta is the pork belly. It is the essential ingredient of many Corsican recipes. You can enjoy it all year round.
The Corsican sausage, made from the shoulder of the pork. And beware no donkey sausage in the Corsican deli family… It is usually eaten in the spring, or even in the summer provided it is dry.
The figatellu, without a doubt the most famous Corsican deli! Made from pork liver. It may or may not be smoked. Beware the figatellu is only eaten in winter.
Cheese
Brocciu, the most famous of the island cheeses. Made from sheep's milk, it is a quality product, recognized by the AOC label. It is used in various recipes: omelettes, cannelloni and is the flagship ingredient of certain specialties such as fiadone.
Corsican tomme, a cheese of character known for its smell and spicy taste. There are two kinds of tommes, goat's tomme or sheep's tomme. Enjoy it plain with fig and walnut jam!
Depending on the region, you will also find other varieties of cheeses such as:
U Niulinchu (Niolu region)
U Venachese (Venaco region)
U Calinzanicu (Balagne region, Calenzana village)
U Bastellicacciu (Bastelica and Bocognano)
U Sartinese (Sartène region that stretches over the Taravo and Rizzanese valleys, as well as the extreme south)
Olive oil
Tasty and healthy; it testifies to a Mediterranean tradition where the olive tree was king. A quarter of the orchard is located in the Balagne region.
Aquaculture products
Smoked mussels, oysters and trout from THE DIANA and URBINU ponds.
The wild boar terrine
For wild boar lovers, they can enjoy it in a dish in sauce as well as in a good terrine with red wine.
And why not an excellent vintage Corsica to accompany all this!!
Sweet side….
Chestnut flour
On the island, chestnuts are grown on farms by about 200 to 250 farmers. The latter, for the most part, turn it into flour, recognized by an AOC. It serves as the basis for many dishes including polenta, the most famous and pastries such as chestnut flour.
The canistrelli
These are the dry biscuits, characteristic of the island, made from flour, sugar and white wine. They can be eaten either plain, lemon, almond, anise or raisins.
Honey
The extraordinary variety of flowers in the scrub gives this honey a very special taste. Corsica honey benefits from a controlled Call of Origin.
Citrus fruits
Lemon, cedar (typicalcorsican citrus), clementine, orange, grapefruit …
Fiadone
It is a dessert made from brocciu, sugar, eggs, lemon and liqueur.
Strikes
These are delicious doughnuts that can be enjoyed for dessert on special occasions such as baptisms, family celebrations, or even Mardi Gras.
Finally, be aware that there is a special circuit in Corsica that can help you find the best handicrafts. This tour is called "The Road of the Senses." We will leave at your disposal a guide that will allow you to find all the addresses.
Hello everyone, my name is Laurent and I am a sommelier.
Today I offer you a quick presentation of the red wines Corsica in AOP to give you the first references when you will have the mission to delight your tribe by choosing a bottle for the evening meal.
What is an "AOP" (formerly a protected origin designation). It is a kind of product-specific label that certifies you a certain specifications. In terms of wine, an appellation is first and foremost a geographical location, it means a terroir, a soil, a weather. It is also and above all a grape variety, that is to say the choice of the or grapes that made the wine. Then it is also a technique with know-how retained and agreed by the winemakers.
When you read an appellation on a bottle this refers to all this information which is as much as indications about the product you buy.
Ajaccio
If in front of you the bottle bears the name "Ajaccio" you are dealing with a wine that was produced somewhere between the Gulf of Porto and the borders of Sartenais. The main character trait of this appellation is due to the presence of its flagship grape variety: "Sciaccarellu" in which it is present to the tune of 40% minimum. The Sciaccarellu gives the best of itself on the granite arenas of the East Coast, but it is nevertheless found more discreetly on the whole of Corsica. In your glass the Sciaccarellu has a fairly clear ruby dress and plays with light with crystalline reflections. Its name comes from the Corsican "sciacca" and roughly means "that bursts under the fingers". Sciaccarellu is endemic to the island of beauty. Its particular character (I speak in a moment) earned it the comparison and even suspicions of kinship (denials) with pinot noir.
It is a grape of great elegance, quite lively and of a very discreet tanic frame. Perhaps most striking is its aromatic precision. With The Sciaccarellu "Red Fruit Aromas" it is not an indeterminate compote, no, there you close your eyes and you see clearly the fresh cherry and can be the gooseberry that passes and fades to make way for a light strawberry. You will also find almond and blackcurrant and especially a spicy finish, this famous peppery note that concludes the comparison with pinot noir Bourguignon.
Depending on the estates and vintages that bear the name "Ajaccio", you will find Sciaccarellu in blend ingst with other grape varieties: Nielllucio, Grenache, "old Corsican grape" … So several personalities in perspective but the wines will always have this character of elegance, finesse, and this finish a little spicy.
You can also sometimes find this Appellation in mono varietal (100% Sciaccarellu). There you have some nuggets to discover… (my favorite cuvée will be the subject of a future article).
Patrimonio
The name "Patrimonio" is perhaps the most emblematic. It is in any case the oldest on the island. Unlike the name "Ajaccio" the red Patrimonio is composed of an exclusive grape variety: Nielluccio. You can easily distinguish it from Sciaccarellu before you have even tasted it because our Niellucciu has a very dark and thick dress that gladly pulls on the bluish black. In fact its name comes from "denied" which means: "dark; "black" in Corsican. Niellucciu makes typical wines as one can imagine them, if we believe the reputation of the wines of the island: "Tannic, a little rustic, sun-drenched and with character". To give you a comparison the Niellucciu is the cousin of the Italian "Sangiovese" with which we make chianti. It was just imported to the island by the sizers in the 12th century.
This rich and complex variety will give you powerful aromas of red and black fruits, liquorice, spices, game, sometimes violets and apricots. Being the richest in tannin it is naturally the Corsican guard variety. Fruity and sometimes already fooded in the early years it evolves mixing notes of spices, fur of hare and undergrowth. If the most tannic vintages are to drink with a wild boar that you killed yourself with a knife, Nielluccio can also prove to be very soft depending on the bottles, as it can be refined and sensual with a perfectly silky and velvety tannin.
Corsican wine and Corsican wine – "Calvi," "Coteau du cap Corse," "Sartène," "Figari," "Porto Vecchio"
The name "Corsican wine" is a kind of generic appellation that can be produced anywhere in Corsican. When there is no location accuracy, one usually has to deal with a bottle that comes from the east coast. It can also be divided into five "sub-regions" that correspond to the following localities: Calvi, Côteau du Cap Corse, Figari, Sartène, Porto Vecchio. If you want it's a bit like the "village" appellations of the continent.
A short list of words about the title: when you have a bottle of "Wine of Corsica – locality", often simply appears the name of the locality as for example "Calvi" instead of "Vin de Corse Calvi"
What I can tell you about all these appellations is much less formal than what I was able to tell you about the "Patrimonio" or the "Ajaccio". The reason lies in the terms of the decree. In order to be able to take on the appellation Corsican wine (more local or not), the winemaker will have to use one of the two emblematic grape varieties (Niellucciu or Sciaccarellu) or both to a minimum of 50%. This means that for the same appellation we can technically as well have in the bottle 25% and 25% of the two grape varieties as one can have a pure Niellucciu or a pure Sciaccarelu (the latter being much rarer).
Conclusion: for the most part, you will have to make your own initiation and discover the originality of the different domains. However, here are some comments on the different localities.
Corsican wine (without locality): most often from the eastern plain and mostly from Nielluciu. There are big productions of good quality but also some very nice smaller areas that are gaining more and more personality.
Corsican wine "Calvi" between Calvi and the red island, it is a predominantly granitic terroir that extends into plateaus and windswept hillsides. It is still mostly the Nielluciu that we find, but the terroir makes it a slightly more flexible expression in general and a little more on the fruit than the heritage. Grenache and Syrah are sometimes invited for a good part in the assemblages.
Corsica wine "Coteau du Cap Corse". This terroir, made up of shale ridges, produces mainly whites and these are of a very beautiful minerality (I will talk about my favorite vintages, including some very beautiful whites, in a future article). Reds are very rare and are both powerful and fine.
Corsican wine "Sartène". Sartène wines are sun-drenched and are traditionally opulent and sensual. It is often the Reds of Sartène that win the most memberships. Nielluciu in particular, finds an expression all round and spicy.
Corsican wine "Figari": There, more wonders! Figari is a small terroir where you can see beautiful initiatives in terms of winemaking, especially those to revive a whole heritage of old grape varieties like Carcajholu Neru of which it would be the original terroir. Thanks to the initiative of a few winemakers, this terroir has a few elite wines in store for you. Some do not fall under the AOP "Wine of Corsica" for lack of respect for the decree on grape variety. We then have a "wine from France" from Figari that can reveal a nugget. To be fair it should be noted that several winemakers in several other terroirs of the island of beauty vinify with "the old Corsican grape variety" and suddenly do not benefit from the PDO on vintages yet very typical.
Corsican wine "Porto Vecchio": The terroir is quite similar to that of Figari especially from a climatic point of view where there are strong winds and summer droughts. Reds are in principle powerful (usually based on Niellucciu), fruity, spicy, or even with an animal connotation. Many are raised in barrels with some happiness.
You are ready to decipher the "AOP" appellations of Corsican red wines. If you had to remember only one thing from this article, remember the two basic grape varieties of the appellations that are Sciaccarellu and Niellucciu. Of course the Corsican terroir reserves other appellations such as the IGP (formerly "Wine of Country") and above all a mine of curiosity that are under the almost anonymous aegis of the "Vin de France". Indeed, Corsican winemakers always try to go further in the expression of their terroir and some make wines outside AOP based on "old Corsican grape" which are real treasures.
I find you in a next article, a little less technical or it will be about the favorite vintages not to be missed in the three colors …
Pieretti Estate
And to accompany the bottles you will have unearthed it is this way!!
Less than an hour's drive from the villa to be more precise:
Of course there are the basic activities: a visit to the city of Ajaccio (old town, Napoleon's museum, Fesch museum, etc.) which deserves and will be the subject of an article in its own right; beaches and its water activities (rental of boats, jet skis, etc.) but there are plenty of other leisure activities…: Turtle Park, walks, Heritage, villages, etc.
First of all a site that we love:
A Cupulatta Park
A Cupulatta means TORTUE in Corsica. It is a turtle breeding and protection centre on a 2.5 hectare natural site. The park is home to 170 species and more than 3,000 animals !!! Less than a 10-minute drive from the villa, it's a place that is highly recommended. http://www.acupulatta.com/
We take the opportunity to point out that in our garden we very often have turtles and the luckiest of you will be able to see them. Indeed, they wander from garden to garden: the Hermann tortoise is a protected species that is forbidden to keep in captivity. So we let them wander between the neighbors' gardens and ours!
9 km route that follows the coastline from the city centre to the Sanguinaire Islands. Count 3 to 4 hours the go. This path is accessible to all, and offers exceptional views of the coast. This trail allows a botanical discovery of the natural environment in the middle mountains and in the middle of the scrub. Access 15 minutes from the centre of Ajaccio, via the Bois des Anglais.
Crete Trail
The Douaniers Trail
A 7 km walk easier than the previous one, it is perfect for family excursions, with a vertical drop of 80 m. Expect about 2:30 a.m. on the way. Access via the Parata website. You will walk through the scrub, but also the pebble and sandy beaches! The end of the trail is at the beach of Saint-Antoine called Petit Capo.
Lake Tolla
It is located on the Prunelli River, 552 m above sea level upstream from the village of Tolla east of Ajaccio. This 5 km2 lake is located in a green setting including walnut sundr in or chestnut trees. During the summer season, a nautical centre on the banks allows the practice of a wide range of activities (pedalos, canoes, kayaks…).
Heritage
On the heritage side three sites to do also:
Lake Tolla
The Grand Site of the Parata
The tip of the Parata seems to be darting towards the sea. It is extended by a magnificent archipelago of very fragmented islets: the Sanguinaire Islands. The Parata site is rightly classified and has a remarkable landscape and a considerable natural, historical and cultural heritage.
Punta Castle
Located on the Municipality of Alata, the castle is not to be visited but the road is worth it: bordered at the beginning by large eucalyptus trees, the road rises in laces for about 6 km, offering more and more extensive views of the Gulfs of Ajaccio and Sagone.
The Milleli website
With an area of 12 hectares, the Milleli estate is home to a centuries-old olive grove and the former country house of the Bonaparte. Napoleon stayed there on his return from Egypt in 1799. The property has become a public garden and a very pleasant place to walk. The house, which cannot be visited, is classified as a historical monument and the site has been classified as a protection of remarkable and picturesque sites. An arboretum has been set up for children's education.
Les Villages
For the surrounding villages, it is recommended:
The seaside resort of Porticcio
Of course there are its beaches but not that: the Genoese towers of Porticcio are magnificent:
The Tower of Capitello: Unlike the other Genoese towers on the west coast that are located on peaks or peninsulas, the Tower of Capitello was erected on some rocks near the mouth of the Gravona and Prunelli.
Capitello Tower
The Tower of Isolella: Located on the isolella peninsula, near the Punta di Sette Nave, this Genoese tower is a veritable little lookout dominating not only the magnificent coves of the peninsula, but also the entire Gulf of Ajaccio. A well-maintained trail, barely 500m long, makes it very easily accessible.
The Frassu Tower: From this tower we encompass the city, and the landscape from the South Shore to the Isolella. Today dilapidated, it had walls built identical to those of the Romanesque Churches of the 16th century Pisan style by the Turks.
Bastelicaccia
Agricultural and pastoral, some products are sold locally, in Porticcio or in the market of Ajaccio.
Alata
You will find several breeders and producers of reputable agricultural specialties (cheese, brocciu…).
Other fun activities
Finally, you can quickly access more fun activities such as:
For people who are dizzy we will avoid certain routes if we do not want to find ourselves paralyzed at the top of the peaks … (uh… how does it feel like the experience??? Well ok I admit … but I still enjoyed it!)
Hook
The Laser Game, Paintball, Karting, Paragliding… Etc.
That's me! It's October 19, 2016, the sun is in Zenith and the pool water is 21oC… Yes yes you do not dream … Ok OK in the middle of the season (July, August) it goes up to 29oC but we're not going to complain.
And then Corsica off-season it has a lot of advantages: OK the streets are not lively in the evening as in summer but the activities during the day are also quieter. You have museums, beaches (necessarily!), roads, shops, restaurants, walks, hikes, etc. After that it also depends on tastes: we prefer the world or… not!
In any case a definite advantage of the "off-season" is the cost of housing and transport. We try to leave in the off-season because Antone (our love bébinou) is not yet a year old. But when he gets to school his school holidays will become our family vacation…
The island of beauty… but what's worth this pretty nickname?? perhaps its sunny climate mixed with its dream landscapes, its mountains or its many beaches, coves and calanches… ? Well, that's kind of it… With its 5 nature reserves that cover more than a third of the island, Corsica has an extraordinary natural heritage.
But let's start with what makes the joy of holidaymakers and one of our favorite leisure activities by the way: the beaches…
The major advantage of these beautiful stretches of sand is that, unlike the beaches of the French Riviera, you will have the choice to place your towel wherever you want on the beach, and space to be quiet.
Moreover in Corsica, no one will try to steal your bag while you bathe … (well unless you come across an unlucky tourist unwell but for now we have never had a complaint like a holidaymaker).
Finally, when it comes to swimming you will be surprised at the water temperature which is much warmer than on the mainland.
Here is a panorama of the beaches around Villa Serena in Ajaccio.
From the villa you will have easy access to the south bank of Ajaccio and the beaches of the Road of the Sanguinaires:
Beaches down the coast to the south
Ricanto beach:8.3 km / 16 min from the villa by car. Sand beach more than 3 km long! A little windy to my taste from 11am.
Porticcio Beach / Viva Beach: 12.7 km / 23 min. Popular sandy beach with superb facilities at the seaside resort of Porticcio. It is served in the summer by a sea shuttle from the port of Ajaccio, the crossing is really nice. Rent umbrellas and sun loungers, surfboards, small sailboats, jet skis etc.
Agosta Beach: 17.8 km / 26 min. It offers a large swimming area with a huge golden sand beach.
Isolella Beach: 22.7 km / 37 min. Very small hidden sandy beach with very shallow and warm water.
Ruppione Beach:23.4 km / 37 min. Sandy bay, about 500 m wide.
Mare e Sole Beach Beach: 36.7 km / 44 min. It belongs to the most beautiful beaches of the Gulf of Ajaccio. Also called Silver or Verghia Beach. On a very interesting rock garden, we arrive at this beautiful expanse of very fine sand in a translucent blue sea shaded by centuries-old maritime pines. The water is shallow and what is suitable for families.
Portigliolo Beach: 31.3 km / 52 min
Beaches up the coast to the north
On the mythical road of the Sanguinaires, at every turn, you can find a paradise beach… I'm not going to list them all otherwise it's no longer an article but a book that would be needed! So I'm going to focus on my favorites, let's say the ones I've gotten used to dating the most.
St. Francis Beach: 7.7 km / 26 min. Beach near the centre of Ajaccio, is directly below the citadel and the Promenade, a short walk from the Town Hall Square.
Trottel Beach: 8.7 km / 29 min. One of the beaches of the city of Ajaccio. Is directly under the Promenade. Fine gravel beach, with some rocks in the water.
Barbicaja Beach: 12km / 36 min. Fine sand, with a few rocks. On the road to the Sanguinaires, you can take pictures of postcards! Not deep, ideal for families.
Ariadne Beach: 19km / 42 min: Fine sand and clear water. Located also directly on the Route des Sanguinaires.
Saint Antoine Beach: 19 km / 45 min. Only 250 m wide. Sand beach.
Capo di Feno beach: 20 km / 45 min: Sand beach almost 1 km long. In high and fast westerly winds, as they are not very protected.
In short you will understand: there is only the embarrassment of choice … and again I limited myself to the beaches which are less than an hour from the villa. And the list is not exhaustive…
